Wine harvests in France and Italy start early in heat

Wine harvests in parts of France and Italy have started unusually early after summer heat and drought pushed grapes to mature ahead of normal schedules.

In Oltrepo Pavese in northern Italy, harvesting was under way in the final days of July. Matteo Castellani, head of the Coldiretti farming union for Casteggio, said grapes there had never previously been harvested in July. He said the local harvest usually begins between August 10 and 15.

Winemaker Federico De Filippi said maturation was currently good and the alcohol content was optimal, but warned that continued high temperatures could raise alcohol levels and force growers to accelerate harvesting.

In southern France, Alain Gleyzes, a winegrower in La Palme in Aude, began harvesting Muscat grapes at night on July 30 for a sparkling white wine. He said it was the first time in 43 years in the wine business that he had harvested in July.

Around Narbonne, Camille and Audrey Lalaurie had never previously begun harvesting before August 12. Camille Lalaurie said that 20 years ago the start was around August 25, and that this year they would start just after the beginning of August.

In the Pyrenees-Orientales, near Spain, Jean-Marc Lafage said his domain began harvesting last week and was about 10 days ahead of normal. He said staff from marketing, accounting and IT had been brought in to help because part of the usual team was on holiday.

Growers linked the early season to repeated heat and dry conditions. Castellani called the abnormal heat a symptom of climate change, while scientists say human-driven climate change is making heatwaves, droughts and floods more intense and frequent.

Some producers are trying to adapt by improving soil water storage, changing compost use or considering higher, cooler growing areas.